Pappa al Pomodoro toscane

Score a small X at the base of each tomato, then dip them in boiling water for 20–30 seconds until the skins start to loosen, and transfer to cold water. Peel off the skins and chop the tomatoes roughly, keeping all the juice and seeds, which add flavour and body.

• 1 kg tomatoes

✅ C'est prêt quand : the skins slip off easily and the flesh underneath looks slightly cooked

If your bread isn't already rock hard, tear it into rough chunks, spread it on a tray and dry it in the oven at 150°C (300°F) for about 10 minutes. This firms it up without browning it, so later it swells and softens evenly instead of turning gluey.

• 500 g bread

✅ C'est prêt quand : the bread is dry and firm but still pale, not toasted

Warm the olive oil in a large heavy pot over low heat, then add the garlic and onion. Cook gently for 5–7 minutes, stirring now and then, until the onion is soft and the garlic smells fragrant; don't let the garlic brown or it will turn bitter.

• 4 tbsp olive oil
• 5 cloves garlic
• 1 onion

✅ C'est prêt quand : the onion is soft and translucent and the garlic is fragrant but pale

Add the peeled tomatoes with all their juice to the pot, along with the salt, pepper and chili flakes if using. Simmer uncovered for 15–20 minutes, pressing the tomatoes against the side of the pot with a spoon, until the sauce is thick and jammy, not watery.

• 1 kg tomatoes (peeled, from step 1)
• 1 tsp salt
• 1/2 tsp black pepper
• 1 pinch chili flakes

✅ C'est prêt quand : the sauce has reduced to a thick, deep red, jam-like consistency

Pour in the hot vegetable stock, then add the dried bread and most of the basil. Stir well and simmer gently for 10–15 minutes, stirring often and mashing the bread against the pot with the back of a spoon, until it breaks down completely into a thick, spoonable mash with no dry lumps left.

• 1 liter vegetable stock
• 500 g bread (from step 2)
• 1 handful basil leaves

✅ C'est prêt quand : the soup is thick, creamy and spoonable, with the bread fully broken down

Turn off the heat, cover and let the soup rest for 10–15 minutes; this lets the bread finish soaking up the tomato broth and settles the flavours. Pappa al pomodoro is traditionally served warm rather than hot, so there's no rush. Ladle into bowls, drizzle generously with raw olive oil, scatter over the remaining basil and finish with a crack of black pepper.

• 2 tbsp olive oil (to finish)
• to serve basil leaves (extra)

✅ C'est prêt quand : the soup has thickened slightly more and cooled to warm, not hot